Please review the information below. If you have any questions, feel free to CONTACT me.
ORDERING & SHIPPING:
- I accept all credit/debit cards as well as PayPal. Don't have PayPal? You can still pay with any major credit/debit card. Additional payment options are shown on the PayPal checkout page.
- Shipping is available only within the United States at this time.
- Most orders are ready to ship out the following business day. However, please allow up to 3 business days to prepare your order for shipping, especially during the holiday season.
- All US orders are shipped via USPS mail from Oregon and will include a tracking number. Smaller orders are shipped USPS priority and will arrive in 2-5 business days upon shipping out. Larger orders, such as frames and photography prints may be shipped USPS ground and will arrive in 2-8 business days.
- PLEASE double check the shipping address you enter upon checkout. I am not responsible for lost packages due to the buyer entering an incorrect address.
- If your item will be a gift, shipping to a different person, please state so in the "add a note" section of the shopping cart page and I will not include a receipt. As well as any other special instructions you may have. You can also email me.
- To save on shipping/packaging costs, I recycle and reuse many of my boxes, padding and shipping supplies. I encourage everyone to do the same and reuse or recycle your packaging.
RETURNS/EXCHANGES & REPAIR:
- Each item you see listed has already been made and is the exact item you will receive.
- Dimensions for each item are listed and I do my best to accurately describe and show each item in detail through photos.
- However, if you are unsatisfied with your purchase, please contact me within ONE WEEK of receiving your order to discuss return/exchange options. Item must be returned in its original condition with packaging. Buyer is responsible for return shipping costs.
- Each item is handcrafted and requires delicate care. Instructions for care are included with each order. If your item becomes damaged through no fault of your own, please contact me to discuss repair/replacement options. I will repair or replace any item at no cost to you should a problem arise.
- If your resin surface has become scuffed or dulled over time, you can ship the item back to me and I will sand, polish and add a fresh coat of resin for free, regardless of how much time has passed. For oxidized pieces that may have faded over time, I can do an oxidization touch up as well. Buyer is responsible for shipping costs.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
- What is electroforming?
Electroforming or electroplating is a process using low volts on a conductive object within a conductive solution to slowly build up or "grow" copper on organic and inorganic materials. It is a very intricate and time consuming process with unlimited possibilities. Anything can be coated in copper with the right preparations. My focus is on organic materials I collect in nature or on stones. After the copper has been formed, the organic material (leaf, fern, etc) still remains inside. Therefore, the piece is not solid copper all the way through. Extra care must be taken with these pieces as they are more delicate than solid formed metals. Items can also be plated in other metals. Though that process involves working with cyanide and is best left up to the professionals
- Cant you just dip things in melted copper? And wont copper turn my skin green?
The two most common questions at a show.. First, No. It doesn't work that way. The melting temperature of copper is around 1,984°F (1,085°C). Most materials, certainly organics would completely disintegrate upon contact. And keeping copper at that temperature is not something one usually does in their own home.
The acidic nature of oils and other chemicals on the skin, such as soaps, lotions and makeup, react with the copper. This reaction causes a green patina or surface coating to form on the copper, and that color gets transferred onto the skin. It is completely harmless and believed by many to actually have healing properties. It is easily washed away with soap and warm water. I use one of the best sealers made for copper jewelry makers, and apply two coats to copper areas that will frequently come into contact with the skin to reduce any "green" issues and to preserve the cosmetic patina that I apply to most of my pieces. Regardless, no sealer lasts forever, especially when the piece is handled often or exposed to harsh chemicals. A little trick you can do at home is apply clear nail polish to pieces that have frequent skin contact or have worn off, such as on the inside of a ring band. I never use copper for earring wires or posts and instead substitute with niobium or silver.
- What is the difference between sterling silver and fine silver?
Fine silver is 99.9% pure silver. Fine silver is softer and does not tarnish as easily as sterling. Sterling silver is a silver alloy of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. The copper makes the silver harder and more durable, though it is more prone to quickly tarnishing.
- What kind of wood is used to make my wooden jewelry?
I typically use pine on my wooden jewelry pieces. Occasionally I will cut from a piece of driftwood or other natural woods and if that is the case, it will be stated in the items description. A lot of work goes into my wooden pieces. Every piece is hand cut with a jewelers saw from a hand drawn shape as well as sanded and stained by hand. Water contact should be avoided on all of the wooden pieces.
- What is oxidizing and tarnishing?
Tarnish (oxidized) is a thin surface layer of corrosion that causes a metal to lose its natural color or luster. Most metals (silver, copper, brass, gold) are prone to tarnishing when coming into contact with moisture, beauty products, skin oils or other natural elements. Acids that cause the silver, gold, etc. to oxidize/tarnish are commonly found in the air, water, lotions and soaps and produce a harmless chemical reaction/tarnish. It is best to avoid contact with these elements to keep your piece as it is. Tarnish can easily be removed and the metal brought back to its original state by using a jewelry polishing cloth. Additionally, the effect of a purposely darkened/oxidized metal can fade too, revealing the luster below. Many people enjoy the rustic, vintage vibe of an oxidized piece and I purposely oxidize many of my pieces. I offer free oxidizing touch ups to maintain the vintage feel of your piece should it wear off over time or accidentally be removed with a cleaner.
- Will my flowers turn brown or fade?
Every plant, regardless of how it is prepared or preserved will start to lose its vibrant color over the years. Plants embedded in resin are less likely to show any signs of color fading. Pressed flora displayed in frames will slightly fade as the years go by. This is a natural aging process that I feel only adds to the natural vintage look of a preserved plant. The process can be slowed down or avoided by keeping your piece out of direct sunlight or UV lights. Depending on how delicate the plant is, I use either acid free adhesive dots placed on the backside of the plant to keep it in place or floral glues on the more sturdy, hardy plants.
- What is your metal jewelry made out of? Can I wear your pieces if I have a nickel allergy?
The term "nickel free" can be conflicting since metals stated as nickel free are still allowed to contain a very small amount of nickel, less than 0.01% according to the EU Nickel Directive. Even jewelry you see labeled as "hypoallergenic". But it is such a small amount that it is unlikely to cause any reaction. I use a variety of metals in my pieces. My .925 sterling and .999 fine silver do not contain any nickel. All other metals I use in my chains, bezels and findings are stated as nickel free from my suppliers. Depending on the piece, I can sometimes substitute an alloy metal for leather/hemp, wood, niobium or titanium if you are concerned about a nickel allergy. I try to use a lab created metal called niobium in my ear wires when possible. Niobium is 100% allergy free and can be anodized to match the color of many common metals.
- How do I take care of my resin jewelry?
Resin is very hard and durable but can still be scratched or scuffed with enough force. Delicate handling is needed. Do not store your piece in a hot car or where temps can exceed 120 degrees. Avoid storing a resin piece in the bottom of a purse or piled among other jewelry to prevent scratches. Avoid water, lotion, soaps and oil contact with the wood or metal parts of your jewelry. Polish smudges or oils off of the resin surface using a soft cloth such as a microfiber rag, dampened if needed.
- Do you take custom orders?
At the time, I am unable to take custom orders. My stock of flora varies from season to season and the process of making each resin piece is very time consuming, involving multiple pours with 2-3 days cure time in between each one. If I am able to take custom orders in the future, I will update the site to reflect those options.
- Do you accept wholesale orders?
At the time, I am not able to take wholesale orders.
- Can I get a different length of chain on my necklace other than the one it comes with?
Of course! Simply "add a note" on the checkout page stating your desired chain length or immediately contact me after and let me know. I can substitute a chain up to 24" at no extra charge. Depending on the piece, I can also substitute a chain for leather/hemp, sterling, bronze, copper or stainless.
- How can I buy a print of one of your nature photographs?
Currently I only sell my photography prints that I have on hand. Occasionally I will list them in my shop, though most of my prints are reserved for arts/crafts shows.